Anton WhenI turned them to (255,255,255) the panel eventually become so hot that it overheated and some LEDs started to turn off.

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Damo_the_Sane @Anton That would be
about right. If you want to drive them at full eyeball-melting brightness for more than a moment you probably wanted a light bulb. Else, strap it to a well ventilated heat sink, maybe with some heat sink paste


tuplong way. That's about 20W of heat you need to dissipate.r

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Damo_the_Sane 20-ish watts is a lot of heat you need to dissipate in your design. a well ventilated heat sink and appropriate paste, or just avoid running all segments at full tilt if you weren't looking for a flat light bulb ;)

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BG344213471 I'm currently using a 128-byte gamma corrected color lookup table (CLUT) for slightly more accurate color mixing (apparently our eyes doesn't perceive intensity changes in a linear fashion). Work in progress, though. I think I need to do gamma correction on each primary color. The green is a lot brighter than blue at the same intensity level, for example, which makes the color mixing inaccurate.

Have you guys done anything like this? I've no clue about colors and most likely I'll just make a 16-color gamma corrected palette, fine tuned by hand, but it'd be cool to hear if you've gone all in on this thing.

Also, the not too painful engrish datasheet shows the luminosity level for each primary, where the blue is between 200-400 mcd (millicandela) while the green is between 1100-1400 mcd. I'm a bit confused as to how these ranges relate to the B and G values being sent. I'm tempted to think 255 represents the upper bound while 0 (or 1 maybe) the lower. Not sure.

Anyway, really cool device. And as you've already pointed out, watch your eyes!

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